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From the Tales

Tilkut, and the winter in Gaya

Illustration: a stack of sesame tilkut on a brass plate with jaggery and sesame seeds, beside a cup of tea on a foggy winter morning

When the winter fog settles over Bihar, the sound of pounding starts in Gaya.

A sweet named for how it’s made

Til means sesame, and kut comes from pounding. Tilkut is made by cooking sesame with jaggery or sugar and then pounding the mixture by hand into thin, crumbly discs. It’s slow, heavy work, and it’s what gives tilkut its texture: crisp at the edge, melting in the middle.

A winter sweet

Tilkut is made through the cold months, and it’s everywhere around Makar Sankranti in January, when sesame and jaggery are part of the festival in many homes. Many people say the best tilkut comes from Gaya, where its makers have worked through the winter for generations.

On the plate

In many families, Sankranti morning means dahi-chura, with tilkut on the side. The rest of the box disappears over the following weeks, one piece with every cup of tea.

Coming soon to the Dalan Tales shop.